Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Où est l'hôpital?

Ah, Paris: city of lights, romance and magic.

Although I personally had had enough of Paris (city of dirt, smells, and incomprehension) the weekend before, I still stuck us on a plane to France on Saturday night. My original plan had us taking the EuroStar train, but I waited too long to get tickets and flying turned out to be more affordable. We got into Paris late that night, took the metro to the hotel and crashed. We didn't even eat a proper dinner.

Sticker on a window across from the hotel.

The next morning Teresa ordered us a French breakfast (coffee, orange juice and croissants) and we headed for the Catacombs. There was a line. It wrapped around the block. We waited for more than two and a half hours only to find out that half of the tour was closed (reason: incomprehensible). I paid for the audio tours in English anyway. I didn't want a repeat of my Louvre experience.

I've been to New Mexico's Carlsbad Caverns three times in my life. There is inevitably a group of people who decide to ignore the subterranean wonders and instead talk loudly while they power walk from the entrance to the exit.

It is the same for the Catacombs. The women in line behind us, who conversed (in English) using their outside voices as we waited for all those hours, didn't pause or hush once inside. I choose to let them pass; Teresa pushed to get farther ahead. It was inconsiderate to both the place and the other visitors.

The Catacombs were originally limestone quarries.


Stop! Here is the empire of the dead.

The collection of bones was massive. This was another place, like many of the museums, where no flash photography was allowed. The couple of pictures I took are nearly black. However, not everyone follows the rules; you can see many images here.

All this time, Teresa is not feeling well. She has an intermittent fever, as well as headache, and neck and back pain. We grabb a late lunch and head back to the hotel. At one point we come around a corner and get a surprise view of the Eiffel Tower. It would prove to be Teresa's only view.


The next morning Teresa barely made it down to the breakfast room before crawling back into bed where she tossed and turned. Her fever was higher and she had also vomited that night.

I don't take my kids to the doctor often. I figure that the treatment for most illness is rest and fluids. But in my mind (corroborated by Web MD), fever + vomiting + neck pain + young adult = meningitis. I asked at the front desk about an English-speaking doctor and was instead recommended to go around the corner to the hospital. It was so close that we had to call three times to get a taxi to come--the fare was just not worth the effort.

At the hospital they asked for Teresa's ID, but she didn't have to fill out any other paperwork before she was ushered into a waiting room. They seemed to move past meningitis pretty quickly and focused on her appendix. Over the course of many hours, she had the usual lab tests, plus an ultrasound, CT scan, and X-rays. They were friendly, thorough, and patient with our inadequate French and their inadequate English. At no point did any of the nurses or doctors exclaim "Sacré bleu! Trés mal!" so I figured that it was not life threatening.

Finally I was told that Teresa had a pulmonary infection in her right lung. She was prescribed pain meds and antibiotics and told that she could go. "But don't I pay anything?" I asked. The doctor looked aghast. "Non! Madame, this is FRANCE!"

We were at the hospital from 11am to 8pm, but with the dose of medication in her IV drip, Teresa was able to walk out of the hospital and down the street to our hotel. I ran out a bit later to a late-night pharmacy to fill her prescription and grab some takeout.

I woke her at four in the morning to head to the airport. Her two-day visit to Paris had resulted in a half day of sightseeing and the most unusual souvenir: a chest x-ray showing a shadow at the bottom of her lung.

Monday, August 1, 2011

Le Château de Versailles / La Tour de Eiffel

Versailles is not in Paris. To get there you take a double decked train from the city and it takes about half an hour. Now imagine it by horse coach. The Versailles of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI was a world away from the poor and hungry mobs in Paris. It's actually pretty easy to see how they could be so very clueless.

Here is where I have to admit that most of what I know about Marie Antoinette I learned from Sofia Coppala's beautiful 2006 film starring Kirsten Dunst. I'm sure the film is ridiculously inaccurate, but the frivolity of court life--the sense that the royalty were grossly out of touch--really is reflected in the palace(es), the gardens, and the estate.

Gold!

Paintings by Charles Le Brun! and more gold!

 and some of the bazillions of visitors!
Gardens with fountains and music!

Palaces away from the palace. With pink marble! 

Inside the palace, I actually skipped the museum that focused on Napoleon. We'd already spent about six hours there, touring the Grand Trianon and the Hamlet. While I know that Versailles is more than just the crazycakes that was Marie Antoinette, I think that's the best story.

________________

On Sunday, Elizabeth, my London flatmate/Paris roommate (pictured above with the camera), and I headed back to the Eiffel Tower. It took about an hour to get through the line to the ticket counter. Then you can take an elevator up to the second floor (380 ft), wait in another line for another elevator, and ride to the summit (906 ft above Paris). By the time we got back down to the second level, we were ready to be out of the crowd. We walked down 600 stairs to get back to solid ground just to avoid the crush of humanity. London doesn't feel this crowded!

Four of the 2,500,000 rivets.

View from Level Two.

View from the summit.
Paris is a HUGE city.

Happy at the top.

By the way, the French really do make the best pastries ever.
I actually head back to Paris on Saturday night, after my daughter joins me in London. I'm looking forward to touring the Catacombs and seeing the Eiffel Tower lit up at night. I hear it sparkles on the hour.

Fast Train to Paris

We left our flats at 4:30am on Friday to take a quick tour of Paris. With the opening of the Channel Tunnel in 1994, it now takes about two hours to get from London to Paris.

I'd never been to Paris and I wasn't sure what to expect. We started with a visit to the Louvre, where we had just two hours, no guide and no audio tour. I was highly frustrated by not knowing what I was looking at (none of the plaques were translated) and decided about 90 minutes into the visit that a cup of coffee would be the most productive use of my remaining time. But I couldn't find my way out. All the signs led to the same place--a guard who told me that I had to go a different way. I walked through the same sculpture gallery three times before finally going UP a set of stairs that led to the steps DOWN and out. I may or may not have stood in a corner hyperventilating.

Winged Victory of Samotrace, circa 190 B.C.

8.5 million people visit the Louvre each year.
It felt like most of them were there on Friday.

The Mona Lisa is considerably
smaller than I had expected.

St. Mary Magdalene, 1510
Since the Da Vinci Code
Mary M. is more famous than ever.

We didn't have time to ascend the Eiffel Tower, but got to see the structure first-hand. Then we headed to a boat tour of the Seine.




George Clooney billboard. 
I don't think this counts as a celebrity sighting.

While some people headed back to London after the group dinner, I had elected to stay through the weekend. I got some sleep so I'd be ready to start Saturday with a trip to Versailles.

More in the next blog...